
OBTAINED FROM PRACTICE 


Jrade 


182 and 184 Front Street 

NEW YORK. 


Boston: 39 Oliver Street 

Philadelphia: 126 and 128 South Front Strtft 
Providence: 64 Exchangee Place. 

Atlanta: 47 North Pryor Street. 

Montreal* C anada ,59, William Stre et. 


No. B308 






















h— id 











































Franklin Institute Library 

























«» w 't- r3 ,4 3 




^ -’ i ,£ vtv 1 - 


- » t > i./ i-HNj 


I -■ ' 




































































• . 























































































































MANUFACTURE LYONNAISE DE MATIERES COLORANTES, LYONS. 



Works ”La Mouche”. 


RUSSIAN ANILINE COLOUR WORKS LEOPOLD CASSELLA & Co, RIGA 



Works at Riga. 


LEOPOLD CASSELLA & Co., G. m. b. H., FRANKFORT 



Works at Mainkur near Frankfort 


GENTLEMEN’S SUITINGS 

OBTAINED FROM PRACTICE 


TRADE- 



CASSELLA .COLOR IGOMPANY 

• # • • « 3 4 * • • * • .♦ • 4 * 9 4 4 4 • # • • • • • 


9 • <» a 4 * • o 



182 AND 18'4- FRONT: STREET : 



NEW YORK 


BOSTON: 39 Oliver street 

PHILADELPHIA: 126 AND 128 SOUTH FRONT STREET 

PROVIDENCE: 64 exchange place 
ATLANTA: 47 NORTH PRYOR STREET 
MONTREAL: CANADA: 59 WILLIAM STREET. 



No. 3303. 


BLUE DYED IN THE PIECE WITH PERI WOOL BLUE. 


The colouring matters belonging to the Peri Wool Blue group — 
Peri Wool Blue B, BG and G — are dyed in the most simple manner, 
and yield shades of excellent fastness to light and very good fastness to 
rubbing, steaming and perspiration. Cotton selvedges or effect threads 
are not stained at all. 

These dyestuffs are used extensively for the production of blue to 
dark blue shades on better class gentlemen’s suitings, tapestry cloth, 
carriage cloth, cap cloth, etc. They are very suitable also for the dyeing 
of goods which are liable to crease or crimp, or show similar faults, 
such faults being best avoided by dyeing with sulphuric acid in a decidedly 
acid bath. 

The carbonising of the materials is best carried out previous to 
dyeing, in which case a neutralising of the carbonised goods is not required. 


Method of Dyeing: 

Charge the dyebath with 


*.30 'Ver&i&uLerjs salt crystals and' 
i 1* *5 ’>:<>* bi$ul^katp of .sDtta: dr. 

* * ♦ 4 * * * * • • t, * e * « • 

6 o/ 0 sulphuric acid, 


and the requisite; amoun>:» hv? .dyestuff; * e'-n^sF the clean, wetted goods 
handwarm, raise in abo'-rt^ah [ipuvpo-boiljrtg temperature, and boil severely 
for 1 1 /4 to V /2 hours. 


Carbonised goods which have not been neutralised are dyed with 
Glauber’s salt alone, a little bisulphate of soda or sulphuric acid being 
added later on, if necessary, to exhaust the bath. 

For subsequent shading with small quantities of easily levelling 
colours 

Azo Wool Blue SE 
Tetra Cyanole V 
Cyanole Fast Green G 
Azo Orseille BB 
Orange G G 


are used, and may be added direct to the boiling liquor. In case the 
dyeing is off shade considerably, and an addition of a further amount 
of Peri Wool Blue required, the bath should first be cooled off and then 
again slowly brought to the boil. 


Form 213. 


NOTE 

Naphtylamine Black is the scien- 
tific NAME OF THE COLOR KNOWN 
COMMERCIALLY AS ALIZARINE BLACK. 

THE LANACYL COLORS ARE KNOWN 
COMMERCIALLY AS ALIZARINE LAN ACYL 
COLORS. 





1 



BLUE DYED IN THE PIECE WITH PERI WOOL BLUE B AND G 




Peri Wool Blue pat. B and G 



CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY, NEW YORK. 


i 




BLUE DYED IN THE PIECE 

WITH 

LANACYL NAVY BLUE B 

AND 

ALPHANOL BLUE BR EXTRA, GN and 5RN. 


Lanaeyl Navy Blue B and the slightly more bluish “BB” brand are 
employed principally for cheaper grade gentlemen’s cloths. The dyeings 
possess good fastness to light and also excellent fastness to rubbing, 
carbonising, and steaming; cotton effect threads and selvedges are not 
stained. 

For shading towards Red, Lanaeyl Violet BF and B are used, and 
towards Green, Naphtol Blue G and Cyanole Fast Green G. 

Alphanol Blue BR extra, GN and 5RN possess very good fastness 
to light, perspiration, washing, and milling, the last-mentioned property 
rendering them particularly valuable for goods which after dyeing have 
to be subjected to a further washing or milling. In point of fastness to 
rubbing and carbonising, the dyeings likewise behave exceedingly well ; 
the fastness to steaming is satisfactory for ordinary requirements and may 
be increased by an aftertreatment with 3 o/ 0 sulphate of copper. 

These dyestuffs are used very largely for materials which are 
steamed at not too high a pressure. For bright shades of navy blue, the 
shading is done with Brilliant Milling Blue and Formyl Violet, and for 
very dark blues with Alphanol Black 3 BN. 

Method of Dyeing: 

FOR LANACYL NAVY BLUE. 

Charge the bath with 

20 o/ 0 Glauber's salt crystals, 

10 o/o acetic acid and the dyestuff. 

Enter the goods handwarm, raise in about 3 /4 hour to boiling tem- 
perature, after one hour’s boiling add 4 — 5 °/o bisulphate of soda in several 
portions, and after making the last addition boil for another ] / 4 hour. 

For subsequent shading, the easily levelling dyestuffs indicated for 
Peri Wool Blue on page 1: Azo Wool Blue SE, Tetra Cyanole V, Cyanole 
Fast Green G, Azo Orseille BB and Orange GG are used to advantage. 

FOR ALPHANOL BLUE. 

Dye with the addition of 

10 o/o Glauber’s salt crystals and 
5o/o acetate of ammonia (neutral); 

enter the well scoured goods at 40-50° C. (105 — 120° F.), raise to about 
90° C. (195° F.) in the course of 3 /4 hour, and dye for 1 to l 1 / 4 hours at 
this temperature. The dyebaths become almost entirely exhausted. 

Special care has to be taken to scour the pieces well; in the case 
of goods containing residues of alkali, it is best, in addition to the acetate 
of ammonia, to add '/ 2 % bichrome. Carbonised goods should be completely 
neutralised before the dyeing. 

For subsequent shading, Tetra Cyanole V and A, Acid Violet 6BS, 
Brilliant Lanafuchsine SL, Fast Acid Yellow TL and Orange extra princi- 
pally are used, and may be added straightaway to the hot bath. 


2 


BLUE DYED IN THE PIECE WITH 

LANACYL NAVY BLUE B AND ALPHANOL BLUE BR EXTRA, GN AND 5RN 


Lanacyl Navy Blue B pat. 

shaded with 

Lanacyl Violet BF pat. 



Alphanol Blue BR extra 

and 5RN 


5 





Alphanol Blue BR extra 

and GN 

shaded with 


Alphanol Black 3BN 



CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY, NEW YORK. 


II 





BLUE DYED IN THE PIECE 

WITH 

ANTHRACENE ACID BLUE EB, ER 

AND 

ANTHRACENE CHROME BLUE F, FR. 


Anthracene Aeid Blue EB and ER maybe dyed by the after-chroming 
method or on previously chromed goods, yielding by either of these 
methods bright navy to dark blue shades of very good fastness, the cost 
of production at the same time being very satisfactory. Contrary to many 
other Chrome Colours, their shade is not altered in artificial light, and 
with nitric acid they yield a test similar to that of Indigo. Cotton effect 
threads and selvedges are not stained. 

These products are already used to the widest extent in fast wool 
piece-dyeing. 

Anthracene Chrome Blue F and FR on piece-goods are applied 
principally on a chrome mordant, and are especially useful for gentlemen’s 
suitings and tapestry cloth as well as for military cloth and fine qualities 
of cloth. 

In point of fastness to light, Anthracene Chrome Blue F behaves 
exceedingly well, counting among the Blues of the very best fastness 
in this respect. The products possess excellent levelling properties, so 
that they are to be recommended also for goods which do not level well 
or are difficult to penetrate. Anthracene Chrome Blue F leaves effect 
threads of cotton or silk undyed, FR only such of cotton. 

Other important brands which possess the same properties and are 
used for shading purposes principally, are 

Anthracene Chrome Blue R, B B and G. 


Method of Dyeing: 

FOR ANTHRACENE ACID BLUE, 
a) After- Chroming Process. 

Dye with the addition of 

20o/o Glauber’s salt crystals 
4-5o/o acetic acid. 

Enter the goods at 40° C. (105° F.) raise in 3 /4 hour to the boil, and 
boil for about an hour; then gradually add some acetic acid if necessary 
in order to exhaust the bath. Hereafter cool off a little, and chrome with 
half as much bichrome as of dyestuff used, for x j-i to y /4 hour at the boil. 


3 


b) Dyeing on a Chrome Mordant. 

According to the depth of shade required, mordant the goods with 

2-4o/ 0 bichrome 
1,5-3 o/o tartar* 

for D /2 hours at the boil, then rinse, and dye with the addition of 2-3 o/ 0 
acetic acid. Enter handwarm, raise in 3 /4 to 1 hour to the boil, and boil 
for 1 1 /2 hours; in order to exhaust the bath, gradually add 2 — 4o/ 0 acetic 
acid after an hour’s boiling. 

FOR ANTHRACENE CHROME BLUE. 

The goods are mordanted in the same manner as indicated above 
under (b), and, after rinsing, are dyed with the addition of 4 — 5 o/ 0 acetic acid. 
Enter at about 50" C. (120° F.), raise gradually in ! / 2 hour to boiling heat, 
add 3— 5o/o acetic acid after 3 /i hour’s boiling in order to exhaust the 
bath, boiling altogether for U /2 to l 3 /4 hours. 

Dark shades it is advisable to after-chrome with 7- % bichrome 
for 20 minutes at the boil in order to enhance the fastness to alkalies 
and potting. 


For the production of brighter shades, Brilliant Milling Blue B, 
Tetra Cyanole A and the various brands of Formyl Violet are used 
chiefly, both for dyeing by the after-chroming process and on previously 
chromed wool. 


For the subsequent shading, easily levelling dyestuffs principally 
are used, which may be added direct to the boiling liquor; the best suited 
for this purpose are the following: 


Tetra Cyanole V, A 
Cyanole FF 
Cyanole Fast Green G 
Cyanole Green B, 6G 


Fast Acid Yellow TL 
Orange G G 
Azo Orseille BB 
Acid Violet 6BS, 6BC. 


If large additions of Anthracene Colours have to be made for 
shading subsequently, the bath should first be cooled off a little, except 
in the case of Anthracene Chrome Blue F, and then raised again to the 
boil and boiled for another 20 to 30 minutes. 


After dyeing, rinse well, and if necessary, give a slight washing 
with fuller s earth in order to improve the fastness to rubbing. 

When dyeing in copper vessels, charge the dyebath first with 1/2 o/ 0 
sulphocyamde of ammonia, calculated on the weight of the goods, stir 

well, and allow to stand for 20 minutes before adding the Glauber’s salt 
acid and dyestuff. 


* Instead of bichrome and tartar, bichrome 
acid, lactoline, etc. may be used for mordanting. 


in combination with formic 


acid, lactic 


3a 






















BLUE DYED IN THE PIECE WITH 

ANTHRACENE ACID BLUE EB, ER, AND ANTHRACENE CHROME BLUE C h R 



Anthracene Acid Blue pat. 

EB and ER 

shaded with 

Brilliant Milling Blue B pat. 

(after-chromed) 



9 


Anthracene Chrome Blue pat. 

F and FR 

shaded with 

Brilliant Milling Blue B pat. 
Formyl Violet 4BF 

(dyed on a chrome mordant and 
slightly after-chromed) 



CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY, NEW YORK. 


hi 




BLUE DYED IN THE PIECE 



WITH 


ANTHRACENE CHROME BLUE B ST and RST. 


Anthracene Chrome Blue BST and RST are always dyed on 
chromed wool, yielding bright blue to dark blue shades with an intense 
greenish blue cast in transmitted light (Indigo cast). The dyeings retain 
their fine tone in artificial light, and when spotted with nitric acid show a 
yellowish test. The fastness to light of these products is excellent, and 
in other respects also the dyeings answer all the demands which are made 
of goods dyed in the piece. 

The dyestuffs are used for the production of fast blue shades on 
any kind of goods, particularly when brightness and fulness of shade in 
addition to best possible fastness are required. 

To this same group belong 


which are not quite equal to BST and RST in brightness, and are used 
principally for loose wool, hanks, and stubbing. 

Method of Dyeing: 

According to the depth of shade required, mordant the goods with 


for D/2 hours at the boil, rinse, and dye with the addition of acetic acid. 
For Anthracene Chrome Blue BST and RST, add 3 o/o acetic acid to the 
bath (4 o/ 0 in the case of hard water), but 1 — 2 o/ 0 acetic acid will be 
found sufficient for BW extra and R R W extra. Enter handwarm, raise in 1 to 

I * 1 /* hours to the boil, and boil for about 14/2 hours; after one hour’s 
boiling, gradually add 2— 4o/ 0 acetic acid in order to exhaust the bath. 
To ensure complete fastness to rubbing, wash finally with fuller’s earth 
and the addition of acetic acid. 

As shading dyestuffs. Brilliant Milling Blue B, Tetra Cyanole A and 
the various Formyl Violet brands come into consideration for brightening 
purposes, and for saddening, Wool Red B and Anthracene Chrome Blue F 
and R in particular. 

For subsequent shading, easily levelling dyestuffs are best used, 
which may be added straight to the boiling liquor; the following are 
particularly well suited : 


if the subsequent shading is to be done with Anthracene Chrome 
Blue, the bath must be cooled off well, and then raised again gradually 
to the boil. 

In order to dissolve Anthracene Chrome Blue BW extra or RRW extra, 
mix them with some ammonia (about 6-7 oz ammonia to 1 lb of dyestuff), 
then adding hot water. 

* Instead of bichrome and tartar, bichrome in combination with formic acid, lactic 
acid, lactoline etc., may be used for mordanting. 


Anthracene Chrome Blue BW extra and RRW extra, 


2 — 4o/o bichrome and 
1,5 — 3o/o tartar* 


Tetra Cyanole V, A 
Cyanole FF 
Cyanole Fast Green G 
Cyanole Green B, 6G 


Fast Acid Yellow TL 
Orange GG 
Azo Orseille BB 
Acid Violet 6BS, 6BC. 


4 


BLUE DYED IN THE PIECE WITH ANTHRACENE CHROME BLUE BST AND RST 




I* 






CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY, NEW YORK. 


IV 








BLACK DYED IN THE PIECE 

WITH 

NAPHTYLAM I N E BLACK ESN 

AND 

NAPHTYLAM IN E BLUE BLACK B. 


Naphtylamine Black ESN and Naphtylamine Blue Black B as well 
as Naphtylamine Black S are the Acid Blacks now used more than any 
others for gentlemen’s wear, both for plain goods and such containing effect 
threads. The dyeings, which are cheap to produce, possess very good 
fastness to light, steaming, and rubbing; they are perfectly fast to carbon- 
ising and acids, and in other respects also answer the normal requirements 
for fastness made of goods dyed by the one-bath method. Their excellent 
fastness to acids renders them particularly important also for dyeing 
carbonised, non-neutralised goods. 

Naphtylamine Black ESN yields neutral blacks possessing a blue 
cast in transmitted light, similar to that of logwood; Naphtylamine Blue 
Black B is somewhat fuller, and is used principally for deeper blacks. The 
behaviour of the dyeings in artificial light is very good. 

Some other brands belonging to the same group, viz: 
Naphtylamine Black ES3B, ES5B, ES8B and EFF 
Naphtylamine Blue Black 5B 

are distinguished from those first mentioned, particularly by their more 
bluish shade. 

Naphtylamine Black EFF is of chief importance for materials con- 
taining cotton effect threads which must not be stained at all. 


Method of Dyeing: 

Dye with the addition of 

10 o/o Glauber’s salt crystals and 

10 % bisulphate of soda 
or 

20 o/o Glauber’s salt and 
4 o/ 0 sulphuric acid ; 

enter at about 70° C. (160° F.), raise the bath in 20 to 30 minutes to the 
boil, and boil for one hour. Hereafter add a little bisulphate of soda 
or acid in order to completely exhaust the liquor, and boil for another 
20 to 30 minutes. It is especially important in the case of goods containing 
cotton shots to exhaust the liquor thoroughly. 

Goods difficult to penetrate such as heavily milled cloth, meltons, 
etc., are entered at about 40-50° C. (105— 120° F.), the temperature being 
then gradually raised to the boil; it is advisable for such goods also 
to increase the quantity of Glauber’s salt. The dyeing of carbonised, 
non-neutralised goods is commenced with 20 °/o Glauber’s salt only, a 
little bisulphate of soda or acid being added later on if necessary. 

For shading and saddening purposes, 

Acid Yellow AT Orange GG, extra, II 

Fast Yellow S Brilliant Milling Green B 

Tropaeoline OO, O Cyanole Green B, 6G 
principally are used. These dyestuffs may be used also for shading 
subsequently in the boiling bath; when adding Naphtylamine Black or 
Naphtylamine Blue Black subsequently, however, the bath has to be cooled 
off previously, being then brought gradually again to the boil. 


5 


BLACK DYED IN THE PIECE WITH 
NAPHTYLAMINE BLACK ESN AND NAPHTYLAMINE BLUE BLACK B 




Naphtylamine Blue Black B 

shaded with 
Fast Yellow S 
Brilliant Milling Green B 



CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY, NEW YORK. 


V 





BLACK DYED IN THE PIECE 

WITH 

NAPHTYLAMINE BLACK S, SGG and TN. 


Naphtylamine Black S, SGG and TN in general possess the same 
properties of fastness as Naphtylamine Black ESN and Naphtylamine 
Blue Black B, their behaviour also being the same, and are used very 
largely for plain goods and goods containing effect threads. 

Naphtylamine Black S is the most widely used brand of the group. 
By reason of its full blue-black shade it is employed both for light and 
deep shades of black, more particularly in the dyeing of finer grade cloth 
and worsteds. 

Naphtylamine Black SGG, while possessing the same properties, is 

of a more greenish shade than “S”, and is employed for Blacks with a 
greenish cast. 

Naphtylamine Black TN is brighter in shade and possesses great 
covering power, being employed principally for the production of jet 
blacks on moltons and worsteds. 

Further important brands of the Naphtylamine Black S series which 
are used for the same purposes, but are distinguished by their different 
shade and covering power, are the following: 

Naphtylamine Black 4BS, T, TJ, SS2B and SS3B. 


Method of Dyeing: 

The products are dyed in the same manner as indicated for Naph- 
tylamine Black ESN on page 5, and are likewise shaded with the same 
dyestuffs. 


6 




BLACK DYED IN THE PIECE WITH NAPHTYLAMINE BLACK S, SGG AND TN 



Naphtylamine Black SGG 

shaded with 

Fast Yellow S 


17 



Naphtylamine Black TN 

shaded with 

Acid Yellow AT 
Brilliant Milling Green B 


18 



CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY, NEW YORK. 


vi 






BLACK DYED IN THE PIECE 
WITH NAPHTYLAMINE BLACK 4B OR 
NAPHTYLAMINE BLUE BLACK B 
IN COMBINATION WITH LOGWOOD, 

WITH NAPHTYL BLUE BLACK N 

IN COMBINATION WITH SUMAC. 


NAPHTYLAMINE BLACK 4B AND NAPHTYLAMINE BLUE BLACK B 
IN COMBINATION WITH LOGWOOD 
(so-called “Combination Black’’). 

The combination of Acid Black and Logwood is used very largely, 
particularly for worsteds and broad cloth. A fine brilliancy and handle 
are thereby imparted to the material, and bluish shades of Black are 
obtained at a low cost, which compared with dyeings produced with 
Logwood alone, possess considerably better fastness to acids and to light. 
According to requirement, the goods are shaded with Naphtol Dark 
Green G, Brilliant Milling Green B and Anthracene Yellow C, and for 
Jet Blacks they may be saddened with Fustic Extract. 


The following are the brands most frequently employed: 
Naphtylamine Black 4B, 6B, 19 J, ESN 
Naphtyl Blue Black N 
Naphtylamine Blue Black B 
Naphtylamine Blue Black 5B) 

Naphtylamine Black 7BS J 
Naphtylamine Black X2B, X3B, for very cheap Blacks. 


for Blue-black 


Of the previously mentioned products, Naphtyl Blue Black N, Naph- 
tylamine Blue Black B and 5B, and Naphtylamine Black 7BS, ESN 
and 6B yield the dyeings of best fastness to light. 


Method of Dyeing: 

Charge the dyebath with 

2 - 3 o/b oxalic acid (according to the hardness of the water) and 
10 — 20 o/ 0 Glauber’s salt crystals, 

then add the requisite amount of dyestuff and logwood extract or Hematine 
crystals (as well as of fustic extract if necessary), boil up tbe bath, enter 
the wetted goods, and run for 20 to 30 minutes without steam, and then 
for about an hour at the boil. If the bath has not become yellowish 
brown by this time, a sign that the black dyestuff has not been fully 
absorbed, the boiling must be continued for another 15 to 20 minutes 
with the addition of Va— 1% oxalic acid. 

Hereafter add 6 o/o copperas and 

3 o/o sulphate of copper, 
and boil for another 3 /4 hour. 

After dyeing, rinse thoroughly, or, if necessary, wash with fuller’s 
earth and the addition of a little acetic acid. 


7 


Another method, which is followed by some dyers, but which 
yields dyeings of not quite the same fastness to light, is the following. 

Charge the dyebath with 

4-6 o/o copperas 

2-3 o/ 0 sulphate of copper and Logwood Extract or 
Hematine crystals and Fustic Extract if 
necessary, 

and then add oxalic acid (on an average 2 o/ 0 of the weight of the goods) 
until the black precipitate present in the bath has become dissolved and 
the liquor assumed a yellowish appearance. 

Hereafter add the requisite amount of Naphtylamine Black, Naphtyl 
Blue Black or Naphtylamine Blue Black in solution. Enter the goods at 
60-70" C. (140 160° F.), raise in 20 minutes to boiling temperature, and 
boil for about F/4 hours. After this time 1 °/o oxalic acid may be 
added, if necessary, in order to better exhaust the bath. Then rinse 
thoroughly, or wash if necessary with fuller's earth and a little acetic acid. 

NAPHTYL BLUE BLACK N IN COMBINATION WITH SUMAC. 

The combination of Naphtyl Blue Black and Sumac Extract is 
employed as a substitute for Logwood and Iron Black, and is largely used 
for dyeing fine qualities of gentlemen’s worsted coatings. 

This method of dyeing gives a full handle and good lustre to 
the goods, such as is obtained by dyeing with Logwood and iron, and 
also increases the weight by 6-80/0. Compared with a Logwood and Iron 
Black it offers the advantages of a simpler and shorter method of dyeing, 
a much better fastness to light and acids, cotton selvedges and effect 
threads are left clearer, whilst vegetable impurities, such as burrs, jute, 
and bits of wood and straw are very well covered. 

In order to obtain good fastness to rubbing, it is sufficient to rinse 
the dyed pieces in cold water for ’/ 2 to 3 * * * 7 /4 hour. Logwood- and Iron- 
Black on the other hand has to be washed with fuller’s earth for several 
hours in order to ensure the same results. 

Method of Dyeing: 

Charge the dyebath, for instance, with 

3 — 4 o/o oxalic acid (according to the hardness of the water) 

20 o/o Glauber’s salt crystals 

7 0/0 Naphtyl Blue Black N 

0,5o/o Brilliant Milling Green B 

7 0/0 Sumac Extract of 52° Tw. 

Boil up the bath, enter the goods, and run for >/ 2 hour without steam 
and for about an hour at the boil If by that time the bath is not yet 
exhausted, another i jt — 1 o/ 0 oxalic or formic acid should be added. When 
completely exhausted, add 

3 0/0 sulphate of copper and 
4 — 5 0/0 copperas 

boil for another l /2 hour, and rinse in cold water for 7 2 to 3 /i hour. 

The dyebath may be used over again for subsequent lots, in which 
case add oxalic acid to the liquor until the precipitate is completely dissolved, 
then 5 o/ 0 Glauber’s salt, and finally the dyestuff and 3 '/^ — 4 o/ 0 sumac 
extract, the working otherwise being the same as in the case of the first lot. 

In addition to Naphtyl Blue Black N, the following dyestuffs princi- 
pally are suited for this method: 

Alphanol Black 3BN and BG 
Naphtylamine Black 4B, 6B und ESN. 












































BLACK DYED IN THE PIECE WITH 

NAPHTYLAMINE BLACK 4B AND NAPHTYLAMINE BLUE BLACK B IN COMBINATION WITH LOGWOOD, 

NAPHTYL BLUE BLACK N IN COMBINATION WITH SUMAC. 


10 


Naphtylamine Black 4B 
Logwood Extract 
Fustic Extract 

(Combination Black) 



20 


Naphtylamine Blue Black B 
Hematine Crystals 

shaded with 

Naphtol Dark Green G 

(Combination Black) 



21 


Naphtyl Blue Black N 
Sumac Extract 
shaded with 

Brilliant Milling Green B 

(Sumac Process) 



CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY, NEW YORK. 


VII 






BLACK DYED IN THE PIECE 

WITH 

ANTHRACENE CHROME BLACK. 


The Anthracene Chrome Blacks yield Blacks of eminent fastness 
in every respect, and are to be given the preference when high or 
even the very highest requirements for fastness are made. Particularly 
also are they useful for goods which are subjected after the dyeing to an 
alkaline washing or milling, or to the wet steaming or the potting process. 

Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra, PB B, PPT extra and PPS extra, 
and the brand of Anthracene Chrome Black 5B used for shading, are 
the products most frequently employed; both in fastness to light and 
fastness to potting they behave the best, and they in fact represent the 
best fastness which it is possible to obtain with any Black. 

Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra dyes neutral shades of Black; 
PBB and PPS extra on the other hand yield blacks of a pronounced blue 
cast, PPT extra a covered Black, and 5B a blue-black with a strong 
greenish cast. 

For materials containing cotton effect threads, Anthracene Chrome 
Black PPS extra comes chiefly into consideration, as it leaves the cotton 
entirely unstained and yields dyeings which are entirely fast to alkalies 
and hot pressing. 

Other brands used very largely for piece-goods are 
Anthracene Chrome Black PPN extra, PFB extra, P extra, F and FE. 

Method of Dyeing: 

Dye with the addition of 

1 0 o/o Glauber's salt crystals and 
3-4o/o acetic acid; 

enter the goods at about 70 n C. (160° F.), raise in 15 to 20 minutes to 
boiling temperature, exhaust the bath after 1 /2 hour’s boiling by gradually 
adding 2-3 o/ 0 sulphuric acid, and chrome for about J /4 hour at the boil 
with one-third the amount of bichrome as of dyestuff used. 

When dyeing Anthracene Chrome Black F or FE in calcareous 
water, the bath should be .charged first with 2 o/ 0 oxalate of ammonia, 
being stirred thoroughly before adding the acid and dyestuff. 

For shading, Anthracene Yellow BN, Anthracene Acid Brown G, 
Brilliant Milling Green B and the various brands of Formyl Violets are 
used principally. If any of these dyestuffs or Anthracene Chrome Black 
are used for subsequent shading, the bath should be cooled off a little 
beforehand, being then raised again gradually to the boil and boiling- 
being continued for 20 to 30 minutes. 


BLACK DYED IN THE PIECE WITH ANTHRACENE CHROME BLACK 


‘>*> 
rmi rmt 


Anthracene Chrome Black pat. 

PPC extra and 5B 

(after-chromed) 



tmfJ 


Anthracene Chrome Black pat. 

PBB and PPT extra 


shaded with 

Anthracene Yellow BN 

(after-chromed) 



u 


Anthracene Chrome Black 

PPS extra pat. 
shaded with 

Anthracene Yellow BN 
(after-chromed) 



CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY, NEW YORK. 


VIII 





PIECE-GOODS WOVEN WITH COLOURED WORSTED 

EFFECT THREADS 

AND THEN DYED WITH 

ANTHRACENE CHROME COLOURS. 


for producing fast compound shades on gentlemen’s suitings, 
combinations of Anthracene Chrome Blue F, Anthracene Yellow BN and 
Anthracene Chrome Red A are used in the first place. These colouring 
matters yield dyeings of very good fastness, and possess very good 
levelling and penetrating properties; cotton effects as well as silk effects, 
particularly when dyeing on a chrome mordant, remain entirely unstained. 
The dyeing is generally carried out according to the after-chroming process 
with the addition of Glauber’s salt and sulphuric acid, but may also be 
done on a chrome mordant. 

Tor materials with a dark back, Azo Chrome Blue A I, likewise in 
combination with Anthracene Yellow BN and Anthracene Chrome Red A, 
has proved very serviceable, owing to its property of dyeing the dark 
back in the same tone as the face of the goods. This combination like 
that with Anthracene Chrome Blue F is dyed with sulphuric acid direct; 
cotton effect threads remain entirely unstained. 

Further combinati ons applied for com pound shades are those of 
Anthracene Blue Black C , BE, Anthracene Chrome Brown SWN, I)WN, D, 
Anthi acene \ ellow B N, Anthracene Chrome Red A and Anthracene Chrome 
Violet B, which are dy ed either with the addition of acetic acid or on a 
chrome mordant. Further, Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, Anthracene 
Yellow BN, Anthracene Blue Black C, Chromate Blue Black B , Anthracene 
Chi ornate Blue XR, dyed according to the Chro mate process are used. 

Method of Dye ing: 

FOR COMBINATIONS OF ANTHRACENE CHROME BLUE, 

AZO CHROME BLUE, 

ANTHRACENE YELLOW AND ANTHRACENE CHROME RED. 

a) After-Chroming Process. 

Dye with the addition of 

lOo/o Glauber’s salt and 

2 4 o/ 0 sulphuric acid (according to the depth of shade required) ; 
enter the goods at about 50° C. (120° F.), raise the bath in »/2 hour to 
the boil, and boil for about an hour; then cool off, and chrome for 
3 /4 hour at the boil with about two-thirds of the weight of bichrome as 
of dyestuff used. 

b) Dyeing on a Chrome Mordant. 

According to the depth of shade required, mordant the goods with 
1.5 3 o/ 0 bichrome and 
1 -2,5o/ 0 tartar* 

* Instead of bichrome and tartar, bichrome in combination with formic acid, lactic 
acid, lactoline etc. may be used for mordanting. 


9 


for 1 */2 hours at tlie boil, rinse, and dye witli the addition of 1—3 o/ 0 
acetic acid, or of 5% acetate of ammonia for very light shades. Enter 
the goods at 40-50° C. (105-120° F.), raise in V 2 llour to t,ie boil, and 
boil for about l 1 / 2 hours; after one hour’s boiling, add a little acetic acid 
if necessary in order to exhaust the bath. 

FOR COMBINATIONS OF ANTHRACENE BLUE BLACK, 
ANTHRACENE CHROME BROWN, ANTHRACENE YELLOW, etc. 

a) After-Chroming Process. 

Charge the bath with 

10% Glauber’s salt crystals, 

2 3 % acetic acid 

and the requisite dyestuff; enter the goods at about 50° C. (120° F.), 
raise in >/2 hour to the boil, gradually exhausting the bath after about 
3 /4 hour’s boiling by the addition of acetic acid, or of sulphuric acid in 
the case of dark shades. Hereafter cool off, and chrome with about one- 
half the amount of bichrome as of dyestuff used, for 3 /4 hour at the boil. 

b) Dyeing on a Chrome Mordant. 

The method of working is the same as indicated above for the 
Anthracene Chrome Blue combinations. 

FOR ANTHRACENE CHROMATE COLOURS. 

These dyestuffs are dyed by adding the bichrome either straight 
to the bath or subsequently; for full particulars see our card No 3265 
“One-Bath Dyeings of Anthracene Chromate Colours Fast to Milling”. 


For the subsequent shading of the dyeings produced according to 
the various methods, easily levelling dyestuffs are usually employed 
which may be added straight to the boiling bath. For this purpose the 
following are the best suited: 

Tetra Cyanole V Fast Acid Yellow TL 

Cyanole FF Orange GG 

Cyanole Fast Green G Azo Orseille BB. 

If it should be necessary to add more of the Chrome Colour, the 
bath should previously be cooled down a little; it is afterwards brought 
gradually again to the boil, the goods being then treated boiling for 
20 to 30 minutes. 

When dyeing Anthracene Chrome Blue, Anthracene Chrome Violet 
and Anthracene Blue Black BE in copper vessels, charge the bath first 
with V 2 % ammonium sulphocyanide of the weight of the goods at a 
temperature of 50° C. (120° F.), stir thoroughly, and leave the bath 
standing for 20 minutes before adding the Glauber’s salt, acid and dyestuff. 


hegarding the effect colours on worsted yarn see page 10. 


9a 


































































































































# 




PIECE-GOODS WOVEN WITH COLOURED WORSTED EFFECT THREADS AND THEN DYED WITH 

ANTHRACENE CHROME COLOURS 


25 


The Dark Shot Effects were 
previously dyed in the hank with 

Anthracene Blue Black C pat. 
Anthracene Yellow BN 

Anthracene Chrome Brown 

SWN pat. 
(after-chromed) 

The Cloth after weaving with plain 
white yarn was dyed with 

Anthracene Chrome Blue Fpat. 
Anthracene Yellow BN 
Anthracene Chrome Red A 
(after-chromed) 



26 



The Worsted Warp was dyed with 

Anthracene Chrome Black 

PPN extra pat. 
(after-chromed) 

The Worsted Weft was dyed with 

Anthracene Blue Black C pat. 
Anthracene Yellow BN 
Anthracene Chrome Brown 

SWN pat. 

(after-chromed) 

The Woven Tissue was dyed with 

Azo Chrome Blue A I 
Anthracene Yellow BN 
Anthracene Chrome Red A 

(after-chromed) 


27 



CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY, NEW YORK. 


IX 










CLOTH DYED IN THE YARN 

WITH 

ANTHRACENE CHROME COLOURS. 


Black. 

For the well-known yarn-dyed black and white style, as well as for other 
tast black yarns, the various Anthracene Chrome Black brands are the most 
largely employed. I heir dyeings are eminently fast to washing, milling, steaming 
and light; moreover the “PP” and “P” brands possess good fastness to potting, 
particularly the PPC extra, PPN extra, P extra and PFB extra brands, which are 
extremely good in this respect. 

Without exception these products are easily soluble; they level very well, 
and are of special interest for the dyeing of hanks and slubbing in machines. 

The brands used principally for hanks are the following: 

Anthracene Chrome Black PBB, PPS extra, P extra and F for 
bluish blacks, 

Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra, PPN extra, PFB extra and 
PPT extra for neutral and covered blacks. 

Method of Dyeing: 

For hanks, the same directions apply as are indicated for piece-goods on 
page 8 for Anthracene Chrome Black. 

Compound Shades. 

The dyestuffs and combinations indicated for dyeing the shades contained 
in the yarn-dyed fabrics Nos 29 and 30 as well as in the piece-dyed fabrics 
Nos 25 — 27, also the respective shot effects, have proved exceedingly serviceable 
for the dyeing of yarns in fast colours, and are used generally for this purpose. 
The dyestuffs level exceedingly well both in the dye vessel and in apparatus, 
yielding colours of excellent fastness in every respect. 

The shading dyestuffs for mode colours, browns and other compound 
shades which come in the first place into consideration are Anthracene Chrome 
Red A and Anthracene Chrome Violet B; for dark colours, Anthracene Chrome 
Blue Black BE is mostly used as a saddening agent in the place of Anthracene 
Blue Black C. 

For further combinations for the production of all kinds of shades on yarn 
see page 5 and following pages of our book “Chrome Colours for Wool” (No 3157). 

Method of Dyeing: 

Dye with the addition of 

10o/o Glauber’s salt crystals and 

2 - 3 o/ 0 acetic acid ; 

enter the goods at about 50° C (120° F.), raise in V * 2 hour to the boil, and 
after 3 / 4 hour’s boiling gradually exhaust the bath with acetic or sulphuric acid. 
Hereafter cool off, and chrome for 3 /4 hour at the boil with about one-half the 
weight of bichrome as of dyestuff, in the case of Anthracene Chrome Violet 
and Anthracene Chrome Blue with about two-thirds the amount of bichrome 
as of dyestuff. 

For subsequent shading, easily levelling dyestuffs are usually employed 
which may be added straight to the boiling bath. For such purpose, Tetra 
Cyanole V and A, Cyanole FF, Cyanole Fast Green G, Fast Acid Yellow TL, 
Orange GG and Azo Orseille BB are the best suited. If there are considerable 
deviations in the shade, it is best to add the same Chrome Colours as have 
been used in the dyeing; in such case, first cool down the bath, then raise 
again gradually to the boil, and treat for 20 to 30 minutes at the boil. 

When dyeing with Anthracene Chrome -Blue, Anthracene Chrome Violet 
and Anthracene Blue Black BE in copper vessels, first charge the bath at 
50° C (120° F.) with ^ 2 % sulphocyanide of ammonia, calculated on the weight 
of the goods, stir thoroughly, and allow to stand for 20 minutes before adding 
the Glauber’s salt, acid and dyestuff. 


10 


CLOTH DYED IN THE YARN WITH ANTHRACENE CHROME COLOURS 


28 


Anthracene Chrome Black 

PPT extra pat. 
(after-chromed) 



Olive Ground Shade: 

Anthracene Chrome Brown 

SWN pat. 

Anthracene Yellow BN 
Anthracene Blue Black C pat. 

(after-chromed) 

Violet Stripe: 

Anthracene Chrome Violet B 
Formyl Violet S4B 

(after-chromed) 


20 



Blue Stripe: 

Anthracene Acid Blue EB pat. 
Anthracene Chrome Violet B 
(after-chromed) 

Green Stripe: 

Alizarine Brilliant Green SE pat. 
Anthracene Chrome Blue G pat. 
Anthracene Yellow BN 

(after-chromed) 



CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY, NEW YORK. 


X 















Without guarantee. 




t 



O' K- Inhf 























































































































' 


























































imm 


7'M‘ 


' VSfSJL ■' W ► >1 ir\ 


mm 




■grass^'w 


> ■■<■:) 

,.K> f/.'V-y; 

HI 

xZ 


y 












